JD Neuhaus Mini Air Hoist: Repair and Maintenance Guide

Why Air Hoists Are Easier to Maintain

– When people compare hoists, they usually focus on lifting capacity, speed, or environment. But maintenance is a big part of that story too. Most hoists require a mix of mechanical and electrical expertise to keep them running. Today, we’re going to walk you through the maintenance checklist for a JD Neuhaus pneumatic hoist, and you might be surprised how easy they are to maintain.

My name is Ben. This is the Lifting & Rigging Channel, and today I am joined by Ben from JD Neuhaus, and he’s going to be breaking down a pneumatic hoist – to show us how to keep it running at its best. So why is it simpler to maintain than an electric hoist?

– With an electric hoist, there’s a lot more internal components, a lot more… Everybody kind of has their own neighborhood of, of attention that they need.

What Air Hoist Maintenance Includes

– So when you say maintaining an air hoist, what does that actually include?

– Doing whatever you can to make sure that the quality of air is going into it is the proper PSI, the proper CFM, and is as free from contaminants and moisture as is possible. From a facility standpoint that might include putting a filter on your lines or putting a dryer inside your lines. That’s always a big help.

– Where do we start, Ben?

– I think the best place is let’s get this thing down and put it on the work table and open ‘er up.

Quick Start Checklist

Inside the box is going to come with what’s called a quick start guide. And this indicates the things that you really need to make sure that are taken care of before you, you install the hoist. The first one is make sure that you’re acclimating yourself with your parts parts manual and your operations manual. And second, this, this visual indicator right here, this is, we’re reminding you before you install or hook up your air, you need, and you turn it on, what we need you to do is blow your air lines out. And what that means is just point your air hose while it’s disconnected, aim it at the floor and just blow the air out.

If you don’t blow out your air lines first, you wind up running the risk of taking the contaminants that are inside your air pipes and putting them inside the hoist.

Checking Dynamic Air Pressure

This is an indicator for pressure. So again, we talked earlier about dynamic and static pressure. Need to make sure that your dynamic pressure is 85 PSI plus or minus about 10%. So 75 to 95, you’re in good, you’re good to go.

– You can start there. If your hoist is running slow, go check the pressure on the compressor and make sure that you have –

– From a facility standpoint, that’s absolutely the first thing that we’d recommend is making sure you have the proper pressure and the proper CFM as well. So that’s the third.

Chain Lubrication, PM Calendar, and Hook Position

The fourth one is we put this on here even though we’ve already taken care of it for you. We recommend obviously that your chain is properly lubricated. A lot of customers, even though they’ll see this, it’ll be something that gets lost in the mix.

So you get a customer operating on a dry chain that will create the potential for chain stretch and potential failure. And that will happen faster if the chain is not lubricated. So our chains are lubricated when they get to you. So for the first however long you need them to, they’ll be ready to rock and roll, but we still put it on here just to make sure. Next is just a calendar indicator.

Make sure you’re indicating when you hung up the hoist and when it was going into operation so you’ll know what the proper PM schedule is going to be. And then lastly, just make sure that your hook position is in the proper way. Make sure your latch is all the way in the front and properly situated from your trolley, whatever you’re hanging it from. And then there’s a QR code in case you have any other questions.

Inspecting the Filter Silencer

The first thing that I would recommend for any customer to do, just like with your car, you want to find your air filter and make sure that everything’s looking good, right? So you would take a three millimeter allen wrench and back off these four screws on your gearbox cover. If you’re anything like me, make sure you put all your components in the same place because I will lose them for sure. This just slides right off. And right behind here, this is our air filter mechanism.

So we have two different pieces of it. One is more of a traditional soft filter, and this is what’s called a plastic or composite. We call it vion. This is a combination of filtering your air as it’s coming through and also keeping your volume level down. You would look at this and look for any visual indicators.

Typically speaking, if this was yellow or if it was saturated, if it was moist, that would typically be an indicator that it was being over oiled. So maybe you need to turn your FRLs down a little bit because you’re flooding the unit with oil, which can make it slip if you use too much typically.

Setting Your FRL Drip Rate

If you’re using your own lubricating units, they’re called FRLs or filter regulator lubricators and they’re strategically placed throughout the plant. They release oil into the components that need it throughout the plant. You need to make sure that A, you have oil in them and B, that your drip rate is set.

So if you are not using our proprietary grease and you are using your plant’s FRLs, you need to basically take them to the lowest setting. We require a minimal amount of oil in order for the hoist to run. So you’re looking for the same kind of contaminants on both of these. If this were brown or covered with dust, that’s a typical indicator that you’re wearing down your vanes inside the motor a little bit faster than it’s necessary and that’s leaving that dust or residue. So we’re going to put this back on just like we found it.

Gearbox Maintenance Interval

The next thing that I would say that you need to examine is your control valves. You have a motor and you have a gearbox. Typically have to go through one to get to the other. What I really love about our design is that we consider these halves of the hoist. So this is your gearbox half here, this is your motor half here. And what I just showed you by examining the filter silencer in the gearbox, in all honesty, it’s probably going to be the most access to the gearbox a customer’s ever really going to need. Our recommended PM on the gearbox is 10 years.

So basically what we’re saying is it’s going to be 10 years before you even need to get in there and make sure everything’s looking okay. And odds are, it’s going to be. Our gearbox is airtight and grease packed. So if you open it, you’ve already created more problems than you potentially had before by allowing contaminants into the gearbox.

Do not go into your gearbox unless you have somebody there that is qualified, you’re qualified, or you know absolutely 100% that you need to get further into it. But check with us first because we’ll save you a lot of headaches.

Inspecting the Control Valve

So what I’m using right now is a three millimeter Allen wrench. This one tool will allow you access to either end of the hoist. This is ultimately where our motor is. So these hoses that you see here, they’re color coded. It’s three different types of airflow. So green is going to indicate this is going to be your up, all right? Red is going to be your down and then your clear is for your main air supply. And these are just push pull fittings. So all you need to do is really put a little pressure here and these pull right out.

Removing the Motor Cover and Strain Relief

We’re going to undo the motor cover now. So one thing to keep in mind when you’re taking these screws out, you’re going to have lock washers. Make sure you keep those on.

And what I’m doing here is this is our strain relief cable, which is actually tethered to our control hose. Strain relief is terminology used for a safety cable that is connected at the hoist and at the pendant. What that does is it absorbs when a customer or an operator is yes, is side loading or pulling on it or pulling on the hoist, what it does is it absorbs all of that torque so that you’re not putting strain on the actual control hose, which will ultimately separate.

Checking the Control Piston for Scoring

So this is our main control valve. So if you had any particulates or contaminants that got into the hoist from your airline, they’re going to be in here. You can clearly see that there’s a seeger ring here that you remove that, pull out your piston, examine it, see if it’s got any scuffs or if there’s any Teflon tape down in the cavity, clean that out, put it back in here and you should be good to go.

So what you’re going to do is take a pair of seeger ring pliers. You want to put your finger or your hand over this so nothing flies out. So you’re going to take this off because these are brass and it’s a softer metal. You’re looking for any scoring. There we go. So inside here, you got your control piston.

You want to look here for signs of scoring along the brass. So if you see scratches, you want to look down in here and see, do you see any Teflon tape? Do you see metal shavings? Do you see anything, any particulates at all in there? Maybe take your air hose and give it a little shot there to clean it out. And once you’re sure that you’re in good shape, you can reassemble. You want to make sure that there’s some give to it so that you can feel it push back and you put your top on there. And then we put our seeger ring back on. There we go.

Ruling Out Air Problems

– We’ve hopefully solved our problem of the hoist is moving slow or it’s not lifting, right?

– If it’s an air problem, we know that you’ve got good air because your filter hasn’t shown any signs of over lubrication or contaminants in the air or contaminants from the hoist. And we’ve checked our control piston to make sure that there’s no scoring, that it’s not stuck or seized.

Jerky Movement and Chain Stretch

– What about if there’s a jerky movement in your hoist or something like that?

– So a jerky movement might indicate a deformation in your chain. As the chain is going over the sprocket that’s on the inside, if a link in your chain has been stretched, as it’s going over that same area in the pocket wheel or the sprocket on the inside, you might feel a little bit of a bump. You should be doing regular inspections of your chain. You should have a chain gauge, kind of a go, no go situation. We can provide one of those for you. Basically what that is, is as the chain is hanging, you insert it into a chain, you should have X amount of links in between them. If it fits, you’re in good shape. If it does not fit, it means your chain has stretched.

In any situation where you find out, if you have an indicator that your chain has been deformed or stretched, get the hoist out of service immediately. Once you discover this and you need to send it out to get serviced, just contact your local Mazzella distributor and they can get you squared away.

How to Lubricate Hoist Chain

So we would recommend that it get on your PM schedule. And for those of you who don’t know, PM stands for preventative maintenance. So things that you know need to be done before there are problems. And chain lubrication is a critical one. So if your chain is suspended, even if it’s not under load, there’s no space in between those links for the lubricant to get to. So you’re really just kind of coating it on the outside. Every part about that chain is getting oil except for the part that needs it. So we typically recommend that you only lubricate a slack chain.

Choosing the Right Hoist Grease

If you started to see your hoist start to slow down or stall out completely, we’ve checked our air. We know that we’re in good shape. We don’t have any contaminants in our control piston area. I would say that the next logical place to look is do you have grease? Is it properly lubricated?

So again, when the hoist comes from us, it’s already been packed with our proprietary grease. You can use your own FRLs if you want, but if you don’t have FRLs in your facility, then you will need to ultimately regrease the hoist at one point. The thing is we’ve made this as easy as possible.

There’s tons of different motor greases out there in the world and a lot of people look at them as interchangeable. In some cases that might be the situation, but it is not with JDN. If you’re going to use grease in our hoist, which we recommend, it needs to be our JDN grease that you need to source from your local Mazzella distributor.

Why You Need JDN Grease

When the hoist actuates, the heat that’s generated by the motor turning will ultimately break that grease down into more of a liquid form and then systematically self-lubricate the hoist. So if you’re not using our grease, that won’t happen when you achieve a certain temperature and it will just stay in there. You’ll just gunk it up and whenever you put more in it, you’re just going to put more gunk inside of it and ultimately, it’s going to cause the hoist to seize.

If I’m a maintenance operator and I’ve got a big tub of motor grease that I use for everything right here, even if you’ve already told me I’m not supposed to use it in here, my brain will probably allow myself to do that from time to time. We’ve seen it. It’s a common mistake, but it’s also easily fixable. It just needs to be opened up and flushed out.

Using Tool Oil Instead of Grease

You might ask, “Hey Ben, what if we can’t grease the hoist? We want to use our own FRLs. Is that okay?” It absolutely is. As long as you’re not using synthetic tool oil, it needs to be regular tool oil, not synthetic. The worst thing that’ll happen is that oil will flush out the grease that’s in here, but as long as you’re continuing to getting oil in there, you’re still going to be fine.

But I can’t stress enough non-synthetic. If you use synthetic motor tool oil inside here, it will react with the grease that’s already inside the hoist and rubberize it. So, if you open up your hoist and you’ve got little black pellets, little rubber pellets inside, that’s an indicator that somebody’s probably put synthetic tool oil in.

How to Grease an Air Hoist

This is our motor can here and at the nose of our motor can, this is what’s called a zerk or grease fitting. This is a standard fitting. It’s only one size. Every grease gun has this fitting on the edge of it. As long as you’ve got a grease gun and it’s packed with our proprietary grease, just open this up, give it a couple of pumps until you feel pressure resistance back on you. That’ll mean it’s regrease, you’re ready to go.

Replacing the Motor Cartridge

If all these other components have checked out, you’re left with what’s gone wrong is probably inside the motor. Now in the motor cartridge, there’s only three components. There’s a rotor, there is O-rings, and there are what we call fins or vanes that are used to catch the air that turn the rotor. The O-rings push the vanes up. The vanes catch the air coming from left or right, which actuates the hoist to make you lift or lower. And the rotor is the central hub where that holds all these things.

Those are the only three components inside here along with grease. If these things are wrong, then what you need to do is get this motor can out of here and replace it with a fresh one and then get this hoist back into service. I’m going to show you how easy that is to do.

Removing the Motor Cartridge With a Puller Tool

So what we did was we took an anchor screw here that we just took out that keeps our motor can in. The one additional tool that you will need, it’s not standard off the shelf. This is produced by J.D. Neuhaus and you can get it from J.D. Neuhaus or your Mazzella distributor. It’s called a puller tool that’s designed for removing the motor can.

So again, in our old design, this would be a cylinder and inside would be the rotor, the vanes and the O-rings. What we’ve done was we’ve taken that design, put it into a sealed compartment. So now it’s essentially only one part that you need to replace. And by having one of these on your shelf as an end user is almost the same as buying an extra hoist. So this part can really save you a lot of headaches going forward.

This hole here directly over the zerk fitting is the same place that we use. Remember we were talking about greasing the hoist. It’s going to be the exact same. There’ll be a hole here that this is going to screw down into at 12 o’clock so you can’t miss it. So we’re going to screw this down. You’re going to hold this down and pull out your motor can.

Swapping In a Spare Motor Cartridge

Here we can see our spline that goes down and will connect in the bottom here to our gearbox, but that’s the only part of the gearbox that you’ll see. Again, the rest of it is sealed. Inside here again is our rotor, our vanes and our O-rings. You have another one of these, like I said, on the shelf. All you need to do is grab it. You put it right back in the way that we just took this one out.

Taking Apart the Motor to Inspect

A lot of our customers have the internal components to rebuild this. So what we’re going to do now is show you how simple that can be. So we’re going to take a three millimeter allen wrench, which is the same tool that we use to take away on the screws on the outside. And as you’re taking these off, you’ll actually feel the top of this start to come away. And that’s because of these springs that we have on the inside. These are our brake springs. We’re going to take these needle nose priors gently, kind of twist back and forth as you apply upward pressure and pulling.

Inside the Air Hoist Motor

What you’re looking at here is what we call our brake piston. So have your braking material that’s bonded here to this aluminum puck and that sits on top of our rotor, only goes on one way. You can see the holes kind of offset.

So our rotor is this whole one seamless metal piece that’s holding everything together, including the zerk fitting. These brown fins or vanes as we call them, as you can see, kind of sit up as the hoist turns left and right, that’s what forces the chain to go up and down.

So while you can’t see them here, that space that you can see between the vanes and the zerk fitting, that’s where our O-rings are situated and because they’re a pliable, flexible material, they can be pushed down, which creates a general spring pressure that forces the vanes up because you want them as up as possible so that they can catch as much of that air for inefficiency.

So basically in order to rebuild this motor, you would take out this rotor, you would replace these fins and O-rings, which is very easy to do. You just seat the vanes down in each one of the grooves and put the vein down on top of it, spin the rotor, do the same thing until you’ve gone all the way around.

Signs Your Motor Needs a Rebuild

– So let’s say you’ve come this far, you’ve taken it apart. How do you know that you should be rebuilding your motor? What are some of the indicators that you’re going to see on the inside that, hey, this thing’s not good anymore?

– So basically what you do is you would just pull this out. So you can see that’s the other side of our brake piston. Look for any scoring or deformation. Most importantly, you want to look for color changes. So if you see a blue or purple hue anywhere in here, that’s an indication that the metal has been misshapen due to heat, but you want to kind of run your finger down there, see if you feel any pitting from corrosion, anything like that. But as long as you’ve got a nice smooth surface, you don’t have any contaminants in there, you’ll know that you’re good to go.

Inspecting the Rotor for Wear

So you can see a clean version of our rotor. You’ve got six wings as we like to call them with spaces in between each one. And then at nine and three o’clock, this is where your grease goes. So it goes in through the zerk fitting, but then gets deposited in these pockets in each of these wings. So as the rotor turns and heat increases, this grease will then start to weep out.

We’re just making sure that, clean it off, make sure there’s no particulates on the outside. You want to run your finger down the side, make sure that you can feel that chamfer. If there’s any sharpness here or you feel like there’s a jagged edge, that means that it’s been spinning at a high rate and probably operating without some lubrication. It can be kind of tampered down.

It can be sanded down a little bit if you need to. And then once you want to rebuild it, again, you can see how the hole here is offset. So this will only go in one way like so. So you’ll always have surface contact at the bottom at the six o’clock and extra space up at the 12. And that’s where we’re going to work when we’re putting this back together.

Inspecting O-Rings and Vanes

What you’re looking for from the O-rings, you’re looking for any signs of dry rot, any signs of cracking, any signs of rigidity. So, if you can’t get these to bend a little bit, if you see any cracks or whatever, it’s best to just pitch these, get rid of them.

So, if it turns out that you need to replace one of these or one of these, which I’ll show you how to inspect here in just a moment, we recommend that you replace the entire set. If you don’t, don’t mix old and new components, you’ll just be in here more than you need to. So that’s how you inspect the O-rings.

How to Tell If Vanes Are Worn

For your vanes, there’s two different ways to inspect. One, you want to look down the sides. So basically down the sides either way, you want to look if there’s divots, if there is an indentation, if the ends are thicker than the middle, basically, for a lack of a better way to put it, that’s an indicator that these are, when they’re rocking back and forth, it creates wear in the middle of these, right?

The other place that can get wear is on the top because as it’s spinning against the cylinder, what you want to look for is a bevel, like a barn door, kind of a 45 degree angle at the top of this. If this is a straight 90 degree, that means that the top has basically worn down against this. And with that top is worn down, that’s less surface area that’s able to get grabbed by the air and move the rotor, so you’re going to get more inefficient operation.

So any questions before I put it back together?

– Let’s just see how it goes back together.

– All right. You can try it a couple of different ways.

Installing New Vanes

A lot of customers will try to put them in at the same time. So as long as you can situate this in your vane and you can get your vane down in here. There we go. And then you can see, once you get it under there, you can just use that to push her down and then slide and wash, rinse, repeat. It might feel a little difficult or tedious the first time they do it, but they’ll develop their own system and you’ll get a little bit more comfortable with it every time you do it to the point that

How Often to Service an Air Hoist

– How often do you need to do this?

– Muscle memory. It’s going to come down to how often is the lift being used? I know that I’ve had customers that have told me that as long as they’ve had the hoist, they’ve never actually put any lubrication in them because of the frequency at which they, or the infrequency at which they use them. In a Michigan Automotive plant, for example, their entire air hoist fleet is made up of JDNs, but they don’t all run at the same frequency. So they basically do their entire plant once a month or once every two weeks based on the need of the highest moving application in their plant.

– Now you’re going to put the brake disc back in?

– Correct. So basically you’re all good to go.

Reassembling the Motor

New vanes, new O-rings, everything’s inspected. Rotor turns okay. You’re in good shape. So now again, this will only go on one way. There we go. It’s going to go down flush. Again, brake springs. We’re on here. Again, this will only go on one way. Before you start to tighten down your screws, you need to make sure that you’ve got that spring pressure that you can feel. You need to apply a little pressure to get the first couple of screws to catch because those springs are working against you.

And once you get them all in here, then you can start tightening them down. And then again, we’re going to use our visual indicators on the hoist itself. Going to get her down in here. Here we go. Got our mallet. Give a little tappy tap. And there you go.

Setting Brake Distance

Anytime you take apart the motor, when you put it back together, you need to make sure that you’re setting your proper brake distance. And what we’re doing is basically we are limiting the amount of space that the brake can move away from the rotor when the air is actually applied. If your brake doesn’t have enough space to move away, your rotor can’t spin, right? So you’re not going to get that happy hoist sound is what we call it. You will always know whether or not you did this the right way based on the sound your hoist makes when you’re done with it. If it chugs or if it not getting that sound that we’re all used to, it means that your brake distance is not set correctly.

Typically speaking, most people will put, they’ll ratchet it down too much so there won’t be enough space for it to back off. Sometimes you’ll let people that won’t put, they’ll put too much space so when it pulls back, you get what’s called blow by. So the air is not actually being used to move the rotor as much as it is because a lot of it’s escaping. Okay?

How to Adjust the Brake Screws

So in order to do that, you need a two and a half millimeter allen wrench and an eight millimeter regular wrench. And what you’re going to do, these four inner screws here, these are your brake screws. And inside each one of these bolts is a spring that also acts as a screw. So what we’re going to do is two and a half millimeter, you’re going to back these off. So you hear that crack, right? Just want them loose. You’re going to do that for every one of them.

Now all you’re going to do is you’re going to hold this in place and then you’re going to screw these back down, but you’re only going to do it until you touch. So basically how much pressure? No, no pressure. All you’re doing is doing it until you get resistance, right? So that means it’s now touching the back of the brake. See the difference between where I’m talking about. Now go back just until you feel resistance right there.

– Right – There. Right there, right? So now you’re going to make sure that that is held in place. The nut that you’re going to have is held in place. Now you’re going to back this off 45 degrees. You want to go 90 and then come back 45, that’s fine. Just basically go down 45 degrees. All right? And then as you’re doing that, then you’re going to tighten around that brake spring to make sure that it can’t move. But you want to be sure that you’re not turning the spring. That’s why you’re holding this in place.

– Hold the spring in place.

– Correct. And then you’re going to wash, rinse, repeat, anchor our strain relief here.

Reassembling the Hoist

So before you put your motor cover back on, remember you’ve got an extra screw that’s used to secure the motor cartridge. Again, you want to make sure you got nice and flush.

– So how do you know red, green, clear, where they’re going to go?

– They’re actually embossed. So see here, air supply?

– Yep. So you’re going to look on the plastic cover.

– Yep. Says lifting right here.

– Lifting and it says green. So that’s helpful.

– Right. And then you’ve got lowering in red right here. And again, these just, you push them in. They’re just standard push pull fittings. And make sure you can’t pull out. Finally, our lowering. Secure. Tuck these under the motor cover. Make sure they’re out of the way. Again, only goes on one way. There you go.

– Back together.

– Back together.

– All right. So we’re going to put back on.

– Yes sir.

– We’ll put back together.

– Hang on back up. Get our air hook back on. There we go.

Air Hoist Inspection Intervals

– You mentioned that air hoists don’t have a true duty cycle. So how do you know what the inspection intervals should be for an air hoist?

– It’s going to be different for everyone based on what their application, the speed at which they’re running it. Are they using the entire capacity of the hoist? Like say for example, they have a one ton hoist, but they’re only lifting 1,500 pounds with it. That will, that will result in elongated duty life simply because it’s not being loaded to the capacity. So there are sets of factors, how much weight you’re putting on it, how often is it being run, what is the operator’s behavior with it? If we’re being honest with ourselves, you know, taking all these things into consideration, it’s almost like fingerprints. A profile like that is going to be different from facility to facility.

Daily Pre-Use Checks

– So before anyone uses the hoist, every day, what should they be checking?

– In our operations manual right here under operation, we have checks before each start of work and they’re the following. So, you want to check the condition of the chain as we talked about. You make sure that there’s no stretch, make sure it’s properly lubricated. Checking the control device. Again, just giving it a visual once over, making sure you’re not having any air escaping anywhere, that your e-stop button is not depressed, that everything looks the way it’s supposed to when you come to work every day. So again, these are visual inspections.

We talked about the emergency stop, the operational lifting stop for the lifts and the buffers. So while you can’t see it right now, Ben, above, these buffers are two very small, basically nipple valves and they are our shutoffs for our upper and lower lifting. So these are production quality stops at the top, and there’s also one on the backside for the chain. And what those are, are, is when the chain is lifting up and these buffers come up and make contact with those, that shuts the air off so it doesn’t put any excess strain on the hoist.

Your operator, if he’s within visual range, should check to make sure that they’re lined up properly and not bent or broken. And that’ll be all your steps for daily use.

Common Maintenance Mistakes

– So what are some of the most common maintenance mistakes that people make with an air hoist?

– Using proper lubrication is probably the number one. Either we see instances where they are FRLs are on site but either they’re empty, they’re set to the wrong setting, so they, they’re over, over oiling the hoist. We see them stationed below and very far away from the, the units that they’re supposed to oil. So if you can imagine trying to get oil to this through a hose like this from an FRL that’s 25 feet away, but also 15 feet below the hoist. Now you’re asking the material, the equipment to fight gravity. So we always recommend that FRLs are put close to the hoist and preferably on the same level, if not above.

Air vs. Electric Hoist Uptime

– So if someone is to follow all the steps and the processes that we just showed them today, what’s that mean for uptime and especially compared to maybe using an electric host?

– Sure. I would say comparing it to almost anyone’s, regardless of energy medium, if you do the things that you just said, Ben, this hoist is going to outlive both you and me and anybody else in the facility. It’s just how when you take good care of this hoist, it’s going to take good care of you and give you quality of life back in your process.

– When maintenance is simple, downtime stays low, and that’s what really matters. Air hoists are designed to be easy to service, quick to get back up and running, and manageable for your team in the field. If you’d rather have a partner handle it, our team at Mazzella can help with your inspection, service, and keeping your equipment running at peak performance. Contact us through the link below.

If you found this video useful, informative, entertaining, or you just feel like being friendly, then hit that like button so we can get this information out to everyone who needs it. Subscribe so you never miss a video. Remember, safe rigging is smart rigging. My name is Ben. Stay safe out there.